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Getting to know grains

One of my favorite wedding gifts is my own copy of the culinary classic, The Joy of Cooking by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker, and Ethan Becker. My mom gave it to me on the day I got engaged, writing a loving note in the inside cover. Having the bible of cookbooks sitting on my kitchen counter, next to several other recipe magazines and books, brings a sense of warmth and wonder to the space, just as books on a home library bookshelf do. Even though I can (and often do) look up recipes online, there’s something about physical books and printed pages that enriches the experience of reading and learning from them.

The other benefit of Joy is that it contains much more than just recipes. It is also a reference book for countless culinary topics, from various methods of kneading dough to different cuts of steak. And before each category of recipes, Joy offers a brief yet thorough tutorial so that the home chef gets some context and general know-how. (For instance, I learned in the pancakes section that storing the batter in the fridge for a few hours before cooking can yield a fluffier and tastier result!) Having these overviews can help us feel more comfortable tackling an unfamiliar ingredient or recipe and gives us the confidence to try something new. With this in mind, I decided to brush up on some knowledge about a basic food group: grains.

Why learn about grains?

I love rice. And as a member of a half-Cuban family, I grew up eating lots of it. Rice (particularly jasmine white rice) is the stable sidekick in many delicious Cuban dishes, from seasoned black beans to sautéed chicken to ground beef. There’s nothing like a scoop of fluffy white rice to complement the burst of flavor in the entree.

At the same time, as I cycled through meal plans in my own kitchen, I became curious about other grains besides rice. Trying something different could add variety to the menu and also add some nutritional value (because although white rice is delicious, it’s not the healthiest choice!). Part of my hesitation was that I didn’t know much about any other grain, except brown rice and occasionally quinoa. I also didn’t know why other grains were healthier and what value they could bring to the table. So I opened up Joy.

As I’ve written in other posts, meal time is a key opportunity to show love for those at home — through the nutritious food we provide and through the joyful atmosphere we encourage at the table. This is a job worth taking seriously. Like any profession, it requires not only dedication but also study to advance and feel confident carrying it out. Learning and mastering new methods related to homemaking helps us feel like true professionals serving a great good: the joy and comfort of family life. (That’s pretty much this blog’s purpose in a nutshell!)

When it comes to meal prep, developing our knowledge and skills expands our ability to provide an enjoyable experience for those at home every time we gather around the dinner table. In other words, a new dish at the dinner table can be a new way of saying, “I love you.”

What is a whole grain?

Rombauer et al., “Grains,” The Joy of Cooking

A grain of white rice looks like a whole piece of grain, but it is in fact only part of the original thing. Seeing an illustration of the basic structure of most grains helped me understand the different between whole and processed (or “refined”) grains and why whole grains are more nutritious. Here’s how Rombauer and the Beckers put it in their introduction to the Joy chapter, “Grains.” I’ve highlighted key phrases:

“All true grains are fruits of grasses; whole grain kernels are sometimes called berries. Most grains are similar in structure to the wheat kernel, sketched in cross-section below [see image], composed of three basic parts: the bran, the germ, and the endosperm. The outer, or bran, layers contain most of the grain’s vitamins, minerals, and fiber. The germ, which is only a small part of the kernel, nonetheless contains most of the protein and all of the fat. The endosperm is largely starch, with some protein. Most of the nutritional content and rich, nutty flavor are in the bran and germ. However, it is common practice when processing grain to extend shelf life by removing the bran and the germ, leaving only the endosperm. White rice, for example, is endosperm only, as is the part of the wheat that is ground into white flour” (Rombauer et al., “Grains,” The Joy of Cooking).

In summary, while white rice is delicious and convenient in its own right, it has been stripped of two healthful and flavorful components. As is the case with many foods, the less processed it is, the more nutritious it is.

Because they contain the bran and germ intact, whole grains take a bit more time to cook. But we need not resign ourselves to tough, unpleasant brown rice! Once given the proper time and TLC, they can enhance the dinner table with their own delicious flavors and textures.

Grain options

This list is not exhaustive, but here’s what I’ve tried:

  • Barley – Pearl barley is the processed version, while hulled barley is a whole grain. I’ve yet to try hulled barley, but pearl barley makes a delicious mushroom risotto and is also a delicious nutty and chewy ingredient in salads. 
  • Brown rice – Whole grain; I love to use this in stir fry meals (the soy sauce makes it brown anyway, so no one even misses the white rice!)
  • Grits – Classic breakfast side (especially with some butter), but it also works as a yummy dinner side (such as shrimp and grits)
  • Millet – My latest discovery! This small, round grain has a sweet and slightly nutty taste that we all loved. I even tried pairing it with beef stroganoff as an alternative option to egg noodles, and it was a hit! The Kitchn has a helpful tutorial for cooking it.
  • Oats – I like buying old-fashioned oats (rather than quick oats) for making oatmeal, cookies, and granola
  • Polenta – Similar to grits, it can be a great option at morning or night. Mix it with grated Parmesan for a yummy side dish.
  • Quinoa – Superfood! Packed with protein, calcium, vitamins, and iron, it’s great in soups and salads. (I’ve found it can be gassy though, so soaking it ahead of time can help.)
  • White rice (long-grain/jasmine) – the staple for every Cuban dish, as well as a great pair with chicken teriyaki
  • White rice (short-grain/arborio) – Great for classic risotto

But what about the carbs?

It’s true that grains are starchy and contain carbohydrates, but does that mean we should avoid them? My approach to meals (and with many things in life) is everything in moderation, my dear.

Mee McCormick’s My Pinewood Kitchen is another great resource for understanding and cooking with nutritious foods, including grains. (Read my interview with the author at Angelus News here.) McCormick’s cookbook is all about “gut-friendly foods,” or foods that encourage a healthy microbiome. After battling a host of digestive complications, she found that changing her diet brought almost total relief.

Part of the shift included cutting out gluten and sticking to whole foods. While not everyone needs to follow her alternative diet entirely (I certainly can’t!), many of her tips are helpful for everyone. Her overview of grains offers some insight about why grains are great and how to get the most out of them:

“There is a lot of talk that eating grains is contributing to the demise of the intestinal lining, but if
you soak them and cook them properly and eat them in whole form, they can be part of a balanced
diet … It’s also become fashionable to avoid all carbohydrates and grains, as a part of several trendy fad
diets. Sadly, this theory is wrong. Eating whole grains in moderation and rotating them along with
plenty of vegetables is the key to balancing the body” (Mee McCormick, “The Rules of Grains,” My Pinewood Kitchen).

Tips for prepping grains

Both Joy and Pinewood suggest soaking or at least rinsing grains before cooking them. The rinsing step ensures that the grain is clean and free from any bits of debris, and the soaking both shortens cooking time and brings out flavor and nutritional value. I’ve found both steps beneficial, but in a pinch, skipping them doesn’t do any harm.

Here’s McCormick’s approach:

“I soak all my grains overnight (except millet and quinoa [which she soaks for just 20 minutes before cooking]), and if you are suffering from digestive troubles, it’s a good idea to do that. Be sure to add a two-inch piece of kombu sea vegetable when soaking. The kombu helps cut the carbohydrates that cause gas, and it adds minerals to your grains” (McCormick).

For a speedier soak, Joy offers this alternative: “To speed the soaking process, simmer the grain in water for 2 minutes, remove from the heat, and allow to stand, covered, for 1 hour. Alternatively, microwave the grain and water in a covered casserole on high for 10 minutes and then on medium for 5 minutes; let stand, covered, for 1 hour. Grains can bee cooked in their soaking liquid.” (Note: McCormick disagrees here and recommends using fresh water to cook after soaking. My takeaway is to follow personal preference depending on diet sensitivity and time.)

Tips for storing grains

Because whole grains contain more fat, they’re more prone to rancidity, meaning they have shorter shelf lives. For that reason, it makes sense to buy them in smaller quantities and store them in cool, dry pantries. You can also use the refrigerator or freezer to preserve them. (This was a revelation to me when I learned that I could keep my 5lb. bag of whole wheat flour in the fridge and avoid the pressure of using it all up in a hurry before it goes bad!) And of course, all containers with grains should be kept in tightly sealed containers to keep up unwelcome critters!

Helpful tools for cooking grains

Saucepans and lids – The classic way to cook all grains. I usually use a saucepan and lid to make quinoa, oatmeal, or (for the first time this week) millet because it’s easier to observe the cooking progress and adjust water, temperature, and flavor additions as needed.

“For fluffier results,” Rombauer et al. write, “use a very wide saucepan, Dutch oven, or deep skillet with a tight lid.” For finer and smaller grains, stir often or use a double boiler to prevent sticking and burning.

Rice Cooker – This is a must for households who eat rice as much as mine does! This appliance is especially handy for cooking plain white or jasmine rice (as I mentioned we often do for Cuban meals), since it cooks with very consistent heat, and the ratio of basic ingredients is always the same (rice, water, salt, and oil). Experiment with different ratios until you find a consistency you like, and stick with that. Our magic combination for jasmine rice is to use 1 cup more of water than rice (so 2 cups of water for 1 cup of rice, 4 cups of water for 3 cups of rice, and so on), and 1 tablespoon of vegetable/ olive oil and a teaspoon of salt per cup of rice.

Instant Pot – My lifesaver in many recipes, especially risotto, polenta, and any recipe that involves a mixture of grains with other ingredients (such as this chicken and sausage paella or this barley risotto with mushrooms). Amid a busy schedule, an Instant Pot (or a pressure cooker) saves time and energy and can still yield scrumptious, healthy results. No, it’s not the traditional approach, but I’m all for using modern tools and technology to serve the greater purpose of a happy home!

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